In late February, I went to Austin, Texas, to see America’s health secretary, Robert F. Kennedy Jr., headline an “Eat Real Food” rally. A Steak ’n’ Shake food truck was on site, offering free burgers and tallow-fried fries. A band of lanky young men with shaggy beards warmed up the crowd of a few hundred people with “swampadelic-country-rock” songs. As Mr. Kennedy touted the virtues of eating liver and cooking at home, supporters cheered and held up posters featuring steak and cartons of whole milk.
